![]() 03/06/2018 at 16:44 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Anker Roav - what do you want to know?
Edit: first wrench in the plan. The fuse tap didn’t come with any fuses and I can’t find my fuses. So I’ll have to route everything and just do a mock-up til I get some fuses tomorrow.
Edit 2 : yeah I dropped the ball on this one. The wires are tucked, I’ll get a picture tomorrow. But without the fuses it’s at a stop. Plus I need to get that switch and because it’s raining my garage is too narrow to work in.
So uh yeah, here’s Sammy as consolation payment.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 16:47 |
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Step by step, how it’s done right vs how I would do it and screw things up.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 16:49 |
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How did you route the wires?
Automakers please put a USB-outlet on the rearview mirror thank you.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 16:50 |
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The only questionable part is giving it power. Sticking it to the windshield and routing the cable is self explanatory. But I can do some fuse tap shots
![]() 03/06/2018 at 16:56 |
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That’s actually a really smart idea.
I’ll route them down the A pillar into the fuse box
![]() 03/06/2018 at 16:57 |
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What flashlights are those?
![]() 03/06/2018 at 16:58 |
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I’m more interesting in that Gangar key chain
![]() 03/06/2018 at 16:58 |
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YES, PLEASE! WHOO...
I mean, of course, that would be lovely. Thank you.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:01 |
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Like my dashcam, this one doesn’t seem to have a ball-joint or suction cup mount. So you’ve only got one shot to get it where you want it.
I think I got mine pretty close to pointing straight-ahead, but I wish that I had been a little more careful before peeling the adhesive backing away.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:06 |
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And please turn that outlet off when the car turns off. We don’t need our batteries going dead.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:08 |
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![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:09 |
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Nitecore cobra, surefire 6PX and some Amazon 3 for $12 special.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:10 |
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With an increasing number of automakers offering some sort of forward-facing camera as a driving safety feature (i.e. Subaru Eyesight) I’ve often wondered why these can’t have some level of dashcam functionality built in.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:11 |
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Liability probably
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:14 |
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Nice. I have a couple of Fenix ones. Heard Anker makes some good flashlights as well.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:17 |
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I’ve read that it has to do with some laws regarding recording/capturing audio in certain states.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:18 |
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Dope. I once played through on Fire Red with only purple Pokémon
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:19 |
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I was thinking about installing a switch on this one. Apparently it has an impact trigger where it’ll record if the vehicle is jostled which would require it to be on. I’m thinking a toggle switch for when it’s in my garage, that way I can keep it on while at work as multiple employee vehicles have been backed into over the years.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:22 |
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The anker lc90 is amazing for the price. I have 2 and the ability to recharge with usb is worth it alone on top of the fact that it is crazy bright.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:27 |
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You’re supposed to use the fuse you’re taking out and putting the fuse tap in.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:39 |
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But wouldn’t that only give me power to the tap leaving the original appliance without power since it’ll be open?
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:44 |
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I don’t think so. I may have added a second fuse when I installed mine because I had one, but since you don’t just try it with one fuse and see if it works. I think it should.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:50 |
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Since this fuse tap has two slots, I would assume one side is for the original fuse, and one for the new accessory.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:56 |
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Just tried and needs both. Checking to see if I have any unused in here.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 17:57 |
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I guess that makes sense, sort of. Try a smaller 5 amp (or smaller) for the camera side. I never thought about that before, but I want to change mine now.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 18:39 |
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Even 5A might be too high. Cameras are usually powered by USB car chargers, which those things are usually 5v x 3A max DC-DC converters. Convert that to 12V, assuming 100% efficiency leaves only 1.25A, so you really should only be using a 2A fuse.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 18:43 |
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Check that little black box converter and see the amperage on the 12V input side. Your fuse should be close to that value.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 19:02 |
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You silly... if they did that, how would they be able to sell their factory original, dealer-installed dash cam kit for only $495 plus 2 hours of labour?
![]() 03/06/2018 at 19:05 |
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Legal. Corvette’s valet mode ran into such issues.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 19:16 |
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You want to double whatever the circuit can handle, so 3 amps would be good. 5 amps would be too much, you’re right.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 19:50 |
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Nice that’s what I have in my car!
![]() 03/06/2018 at 20:27 |
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I have a cheaper Roav. What I want to know is how the WiFi is on this one. The concept is good but it is too slow to be useful on mine.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 20:50 |
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Once I get mine up and running I’ll let you know. It’s adamant about using a class 6 microsd or higher so that’ll need to wait a day or so for Amazon.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 21:01 |
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That might be good. Most of the cameras with sensors have batteries.
![]() 03/06/2018 at 22:15 |
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That’s dedicated
![]() 03/06/2018 at 22:43 |
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Nidoking, Ganger, Arbok, Vileplume, Butterfree, and Muk.
Nidoking has always been one of my favorite, and purple Pokémon just look cooler. Plus going with mostly bug and poison made things a lot harder, and I was up for a challenge.
![]() 03/07/2018 at 10:02 |
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Yeah that’s hardcore.
mainly because you were stuck with a rattata until you got something useful.
![]() 03/07/2018 at 12:26 |
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Once you get a metapod to a Butterfree it’s pretty useful. At least early in the game. Plus Nidoran male is Wild West of Veridian